People say: "It is better to see once than hear a hundred times." So consider and members of the Latvian Society of Friends of Iran "Baradaran-name", which NADH back from a 15-day trip to Iran. We visited the world-famous city of Kermanshah and Hamadan, Isfahan and Yazd. Here - a story about visiting a relatively small town Nahavand.
On the trip we were six: Vladimir and Georgy - pensioners, Maria - a pharmacist, Nadia and Olga - teachers of music and science, Margita - publicist. Age -. From 36 to 69 years
Nahavand located on the west of Iran, in Hamadan province. It is the administrative center of the eponymous district Nahavand, the third most populous city in the province. Its population - 170 thousand. The city is surrounded by mountains and is situated at an altitude of more than one and a half kilometers above sea level. Foundation of the city belong to the era of the kingdom of the Medes, that is, to the first half of the first millennium BC. In 642, in the vicinity there was a battle between the army Arab Caliph Umar and the army of the Persians Yezdegerd Third shahin-shah. The Persians were routed in the history of Iran's new era - the era of Islam, Iran has become a Muslim. All of this can be found in social networks ...
A clear and warm morning of October 6, our group bought bus tickets from Hamadan - Nahavand. The price per ticket of 52,000 reals, or about 1.3 euros (1 euro = 40,000 reais). The bus is small, but very comfortable and clean. Designated seating only. On the floor carpet.Time to Nahavanda about 1.5 hours. We drive through the picturesque foothills.
After dropping off at the bus station Nahavanda all passengers, except for us, the bus driver suddenly drives up Massoud us to the city administration building in the city center. As it turned out, our arrival here of the city administration informed personally Ambassador of the Islamic Republic of Iran in Russia, Mr. Mehdi Sanai. Looking ahead to say that Mr. Sanai continue traveling on Iran was our kind and attentive guardian angel. So to him we owe much.
Mr. Sanai was born in these parts, represented its interests in Iran's parliament, now he became Ambassador Extraordinary and Plenipotentiary of Iran to Russia than many of his fellow countrymen proud. Example Mr. Sanai says a lot - only in a just and democratic state, what is the Islamic Republic of Iran, a simple boy could achieve such a high office and respected their work and knowledge. By the way, Mr. Sanai is fluent in Russian, Arabic, English and the native language - Farsi.
Even more, we were touched by the attention to us, ordinary tourists from not friendly to Iran Latvia, where we invited the mayor, Mr. Abdolmalek. Ignorance of our Farsi and hospitable hosts Russian does not become us a barrier to communication - as a translator and guide us to become a teacher of English and local ethnographer, Mr. Ebrahim Siavashi.
In one of the mountain hills near Nahavanda, at an altitude has two kilometers, is an observation deck - a small park. . The clean mountain air, bright green, blue southern sky and the city, which is three thousand years lying at your feet, make an unforgettable impression
is a very interesting tourist site Nahavanda - an ancient bath, or hamam, turned into a museum. Mannequins of people in life-size, we have added a very colorful story of the guide about the highest culture of personal hygiene in the history of the peoples of Iran. And not only!
Here is how the ancient oriental hammam our wonderful historian and writer Sergey Borodin:
"In the niches baths survived marble lion's head, exudes from the mouths of light water jet survived and spacious stone benches clawfoot and hitherto freely been here sprawl to skillfully bathhouse. triturated and holili bathers. But bah-house fans handier was washed visitors, placing them on the flooded floor on a narrow rug. The floors in the bath is also preserved since time immemorial, with Byzantine and maybe even Roman stacked patterns of pieces of colored marble . preserved and mosaic floor depicting pink bathers shed the yellow horns blue water. and when on top of the mosaic on the floor flowed clear warm water, it seemed, pink body nude bathers shook and trembled under the jets and trembled when the attendant, splashing through puddles heels, put near the beautiful new visitor.
All these stones, inhabited, wiped a great many people, myvshihsya, nezhivshihsya, delight here were new people. And new people admiring the centuries-old beauty surrounding them in a warm mist under round arches, as if painted by an overturned bowl.
Ironing, left here could see the involvement of their owners traditions of different peoples, different faiths and estates, while bathers, naked and razomlevshie, together basking under the arches, where through the steam, bubbling or crackling, trembling lights, exuding a stream of soot and lavishing fancy reflections on the shiny body.
Here, everyone not only seemed wiser and kinder, and became really both good and wise.Many urban affairs, and even the fate of deliberately conceptualized and irrevocably resolved here. People have long held the evil or insult one another, put up here, where happened to meet naked, spread on warm plates. It ended with trading collusion, which is not enough determination to crush the marketplace. It agreed on the marriage of their children older fathers, free opinion and stubbornness of their spouse. There seemed clearer and many harmless events that pose a fatal and terrible up there, beyond the threshold of the bath. Here, people became easier in their souls revived childish feelings, credulity and mischief, dreams and desires. It is easier shutilos, it seemed impossible for any distress, when set against disasters stood so ancient and dense arches overhead, when so kindly opened up the jaws of lions' heads, delighting all clean, inexhaustible streams of water.
Tranquil razlegshis here talking, confiding thought and conduct, for these days listed in the city on all sides, about wars, about products, and commanders of the sultans, on the women's pranks, about the adventures of merchants in swimming, beautiful women - in secluded quarters, the soldiers - on long trips. Merchants praised the long road, saying the road, they say, like a human life, but that's a shame, sooner or later, whether human life comes to an end, and the roads are endless. "
Visiting Nahavand, we felt it his duty to visit his native place great and sincere friend of Russia, the Iranian Ambassador, Mr. Mehdi Sanai. He was born in 1968 under the Nahavandom. Later, his family moved to Tehran.
The street on which we have come to the house, typical of rural Iran: tall, solid fences, behind which a small courtyard with the obligatory small pond around which grow flowers and fig trees and pomegranates. Along the street - ditch with water for watering. The rooms of our hospitable hostess almost no furniture, but the carpet everywhere, which in Iran and eat, spread a tablecloth, and sleep, the bed spread out, and just sitting, looking at the TV program, reading or doing. There is also a lot of houseplants.
Mrs Coop really asked us to convey greetings and best wishes to distant Moscow to its distinguished and well-known fellow countryman - Mr. Sanai. What we do with joy and pleasure.
The surrounding area is an ancient settlement Nahavanda Gian-Tepe, which is more than 5000 years. People settled here before the construction of the pyramids in Egypt and the ziggurats of Mesopotamia. Archaeological exploration has revealed the presence on the site of the five civilizations and cultural layers reach thirty meters. The area of the monument about 10 hectares. There is no doubt that the comprehensive archaeological excavations, scientists are waiting for important discoveries and findings about the ancient history of Iran and humanity.
Long, intense and very interesting day, we ended up at a favorite vacation spot nahavandtsev - in the mountains, in the upper spring creek that feeds water nahavandsky oasis. Under the 200-300 year old plane trees of this protected corner Iranian tea we drink, and then on the old traditions we embrace giant trees and ask them to share with us the strength and longevity.Much to everyone's surprise we leave this mythical place has a bright southern stars again full of strength and energy.
Late at night on a deserted bus station Nahavanda we say goodbye to our Iranian friends, who became to us brothers. And never mind that the last bus left in Hamadan. Iranian drivers, taxi drivers show us driving class, confirming the quality of Iranian roads - the speed of 140 kilometers per hour
... In damp and cold in autumn Riga I admire a farewell gift of my Iranian brothers - as far and such relatives. This author's ceramic vase with symbols of the Median Empire. I close my eyes and again see the bright blue of the peaceful Iranian sky, feel the warmth and affection of the fraternal embrace my brothers far ...